Fabric Sourcing

Do You Know How to Properly Source Fabrics?

In order to execute the desired end result of a garment you have to pay attention to specific details while selecting your fabrics.

Fabric Construction

There are three basic methods of fabric construction.  Fabrics are either classified as knits, wovens, or non-wovens.  Woven fabrics are generally stiffer and sturdier whereas knit fabrics tend to be more supple and have a bit of stretch to them.

Each textile group is created or weaved through different processes.  Knit fabrics are made through a knitting process where yarns interloop continuously.  Woven fabrics are created through a weaving process where threads interlace one another at right angles.  Non-wovens are a particular classification of fabrics such as felt, vinyl, and interfacing.  Their fibers are meshed and bonded together using heat or chemical treatments.

Fabric Content

Fibers are the essence of what fabrics are made from.  Fabric contents are broken down into two categories; either natural or synthetic.  

Natural fibers are animal or plant-based, they are produced through geological processes.  Their origins come from the bodies of plants or animals.  Linen and cotton are natural fibers that are made from a vegetable base.  Cotton comes from the cotton plant and linen is derived from flax crops.  Silk and wool are animal-based fibers.  Silk is spun from the cocoons of silkworms and wool is created from the fur of sheep.  The properties and factors of a natural fiber are distinctive from a synthetic fiber.  Natural fibers tend to be more expensive and can be high maintenance.  Natural fibers are more absorbent, eco-friendly, biodegradable, and breathable whereas synthetic fibers are usually cheaper and can be more water-resistant, stain-resistant, wrinkle-free, and altogether lower maintenance.

Synthetic fibers are man-made and created through chemical processes. Many synthetic fibers are created to mimic the properties of natural fibers, they are a great choice when seeking more affordable and lower-maintenance fabric options. Polyester, rayon, viscose, nylon, acetate, acrylic, and spandex are the main synthetic fibers. There are many sustainable, recycled, and eco-friendly derivatives of these fibers offered within the industry today.

Fabric Hand

 Fabric hand describes the properties of a fabric related to the sense of touch, it is the “feel” of the fabric against your skin.  Factors that affect a textile’s overall hand feel come from its fiber properties, construction, and finishing techniques. The fabric hand can be described using terms like smooth, crisp, soft, dry, cool, rough, drapey, stiff, etc.  The fabric hand is a very important factor to consider because all fabrics have a particular purpose within a garment's construction.  For example, a fabric intended for the use of a flowy dress should have a drapier hand than a fabric intended for a jacket which should be stiffer.

Fabric Weight

The weight of a fabric is dependent on the fiber type and the outcome of how a fabric is woven.  Paying attention to the weight can help you to decide what is the most suitable fabric for a garment's end use.  Fabric weight relies on each garment type and how you want the fabric to drape or lay over a person's body.  Choosing the weight of a particular fabric will depend on a garment's overall purpose.  For example, lightweight denim is suitable for a shirt whereas heavier denim is best used for jeans.

Fabric Width

The width of a fabric is critical to understand; it helps you determine how many yards of fabric you will need to complete your garments.  There are two forms of calculating the fabric width, the overall width and the usable or cutting width.  The overall fabric width is the distance from one selvage to the other, it is measured perpendicular to the length of the fabric.  The usable or cutting width of the fabric is the width minus any unusable selvage, this width is measured to be used in the cutting process.  The usable width is most important to pay attention to as it is the width for which the cutting marker is planned.  Factory teams will always help advise in this process.

Fabric Price

Fabrics are usually priced per yard or meter.  Your target fabric price is dependent on the fabric yield for each garment and its desired retail price point.  Fabric price is a crucial factor in the overall costing of a garment; fabric is generally the most significant factor accounting for about 60% to 70% of the total cost of a basic garment.  Always keep your target prices in mind when you are sourcing new materials to ensure that you stay within your budget.

Minimum Order Quantity 

Minimum order quantity also referred to as MOQ is the smallest amount of fabric yardage that a mill is willing to sell per order.  Mills almost always set a minimum number of units required for a fabric purchase.  If a mill requires an MOQ of 1,000 yards for a particular fabric, you must make a purchase of at least 1,000 yards.  In some cases, a mill will let you order less than MOQ but they will apply a surcharge to the price per yard.

Fabric Lead Time

Lead time refers to the total amount of time required for completing a fabric from the order date to the shipping date.  Fabric lead time can be a lengthy process, therefore, is important to pay attention to it as it plays a major role in the overall timing of garment export.  Make sure to always inquire about fabric delivery lead times for both sample yardage and bulk yardage.